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Advice for Sewing French Lace

time2010/12/20

Although lace is a little more expensive than regular fabrics, it adds a special touch that no other fabric can. Though lace can be a more challenging than other fabrics to work with because of its delicate makeup, with the right techniques for sewing lace, you can easily create beautiful works of art with a pretty touch.
      Buying
There are a large variety of lace types available, and it's hard to choose the right type of lace when you don't know what you're looking for. First, when buying lace, consider the types of fiber used in the lace. For instance, laces made with cotton that contain more than 10 percent polyester are more expensive, but they are also more durable and will not yellow over time. Also consider that nylon lace cannot be ironed, because it will melt from the heat of the iron.
      Preparation
You should always iron lace before using it, at least with a warm iron. Test a small corner to make sure it doesn't melt under the iron. When ironing lace, place the piece on a towel with a pressing cloth on top, separating the iron from the lace. Use a low-heat setting and a minimal amount of steam, if you choose to use steam at all.
      Sewing
When lace is cut like fabric, you must sew on an edging to prevent fraying and snagging. To do this, use a picot or hemstitch with very small running stitches, rolling the edge to the underside of the lace. If you are gathering lace, begin with twice the length of lace that you want to end with, or roughly double the length that you actually need. Start at the straight edge and whip stitch, pulling the thread upward to gather a few inches of lace, then begin whip stitching again. This will allow you to gauge the fullness of the lace as you are stitching.
      Joining
Joining lace can be tricky because the fabric is often patterned. However, once you master the technique, it is really quite simple. To join lace, go one pattern past where you hope to begin the new lace, and cut out the lace around that pattern. For instance, if there is a row of lace flowers, count over one extra row of flowers, and cut around the lines of the pattern. Place that pattern over its identical counterpart on the fabric you are sewing, and sew on the lines of that pattern, using a zigzag stitch. After the fabric has been joined, cut off the additional lace around the seam of the pattern.